Collagen and Skin Ageing

The skin comprises three layers: the external layer or Epidermis, a middle layer called Dermis and an internal layer called the Subcutaneous tissue. Collagen is the most abundant protein in skin and the single most significant molecule in preventing signs of ageing.

Structure is the key

The structure of collagen fibres is quite complex, with four smaller threads intertwining to form a rope-like structure. It is these rope-like structures which from a lattice found in every tissue, and in the skin plays a significant role in its architecture. There are five types of collagens, collagen I being the most abundant in the skin.

How is Collagen produced in the skin?

Located in the middle layer of the skin, the dermis, Fibroblast cells produce collagen. Fibroblasts are found in every organ of the body, their function is to make proteins such as collagen to keep tissue, muscles and other structures in place. In the skin, fibroblasts play an additional role in wound healing.

How can Fibroblasts be induced to produce more collagen?

Fibroblasts produce basal or normal levels of collagen, however, they can increase collagen production for example, in case of tissue damage. Usually, cells in distress release factors providing signals to fibroblasts to start producing collagen. In addition, stimuli such as Allantoin, Vitamin C and Vitamin A have been demonstrated to stimulate fibroblasts to synthesise collagen.

Collagen production decreases gradually with age. Furthermore, the activity of collagen degrading enzymes in the skin increases with age, contributing to the overall reduction of collagen in the skin. Also, the type of collagen changes as we age. Although type I collagen is the dominant form of collagen in skin throughout our life span, with age, skin fibroblasts start to produce more collagen type III, which is thinner than collagen I, also contributing to a decrease in the quality of the structural architecture of the skin.

How does NERINE Anti-ageing cream stimulate collagen production?

NERINE anti-ageing increases skin collagen through a unique multifactorial approach leading to:

  • An increase in the number of fibroblasts in the skin,

  • An increase in the synthesis of collagen by the fibroblasts and

  • An inhibition of the enzymes which degrade the collagen

As mentioned earlier, fibroblasts increase collagen production in response to Allantoin, Vitamin A and Vitamin C, all of which are active ingredients of the cream. However, these compounds typically lose their biological activity relatively fast once reaching the skin environment, mainly due to oxidation, limiting their activity. In our formulation, these active ingredients are delivered in conjunction with two of the most potent antioxidants in nature, the extract of green tea, commonly known as EGCG and Vitamin E, preventing their degradation and allowing those vitamins to remain in the skin in their active form for an extended time.

To further enhance the effect of the cream in building collagen, we have complemented collagen induction with compounds, such as Quercetin, Resveratrol and Zinc Sulphate, which inhibit the enzymes responsible for degrading collagen in the skin. In this way, the newly formed collagen is protected from degradation, contributing to skin collagen increase.

However, regardless of how good active ingredients are in any anti-ageing cream, their effect would depend on the ability of those compounds to reach the layer of the skin abundant in fibroblasts. In this regard, our formulation has been specially designed to allow its penetration to reach the deepest layer of the skin, and it is this transdermal delivery technology that makes NERINE anti ageing formulation a cut above the rest.

When will I notice the effect of NERINE anti-ageing cream?

It is essential to realise that the changes in the skin such as wrinkles develop over a long period (years) and it is impossible to reverse those structural changes overnight or in weeks. In addition, genetic differences determine how well our fibroblasts would respond to the cream. In our clinical studies some users have reported noticeable effects after just one week of using the cream, those cases are the exception. However, we believe that those changes in healthier-looking skin in such a short time are probably due to the restoration of the skin’s hydration, given that the cream also has two of the most hydrating compounds known, Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid or PCA, and Hyaluronic acid. In general, most users report noticeable effects after two to three weeks of using the cream, coinciding with the natural cycle of skin to replace a new layer of skin cells. As every user is unique, we would be delighted to know your own experience, so please, feel free to share it with us by writing to info@nerine.com.au or commenting below.

Collagen determines how youthful our skin looks

The picture above is an AI-generated representation of the collagen fibres (orange) forming the structural architecture responsible for skin firmness.

Electron Microscopy picture of the skin collagen network. The Wellcome Collection.

Histological cross section of the skin showing the top layer of the skin or epidermis and the dermis rich in fibroblast (green) and the collagen network (pink) [The Wellcome Collection]

NERINE Anti-ageing cream has been specially designed to increase skin production by the fibroblast cells in the skin while stoping the action of collagen-degrading enzymes. As a result, a gradual and slow, yet continuous increase in skin collagen helps restore a healthy and young looking skin, by promoting:

  • Firmer Skin

  • Improving skin elasticity

  • Minimising wrinkles

  • Reducing pore size

A transdermal delivery system allows the active ingredients, including Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Resveratrol, EGCG and Hyaluronic Acid to reach the deepest layers of the skin.

Further Reading

1.         Bailey, A.J., Paul, R.G. & Knott, L. Mechanisms of maturation and ageing of collagen. Mech Ageing Dev 106, 1-56 (1998).

2.         Frey, J. Collagen, ageing and nutrition. Clin Chem Lab Med 42, 9-12 (2004).

3.         Zhao, C., Xiao, Y., Ling, S., Pei, Y. & Ren, J. Structure of Collagen. Methods Mol Biol 2347, 17-25 (2021).

4.         Shenoy, M., et al. Collagen Structure, Synthesis, and Its Applications: A Systematic Review. Cureus 14, e24856 (2022).

5.         Fisher, E., et al. Interaction of ascorbic acid and glucose on production of collagen and proteoglycan by fibroblasts. Diabetes 40, 371-376 (1991).

6.         Gref, R., et al. Vitamin C-squalene bioconjugate promotes epidermal thickening and collagen production in human skin. Sci Rep 10, 16883 (2020).

7.         Demetriou, A.A., Levenson, S.M., Rettura, G. & Seifter, E. Vitamin A and retinoic acid: induced fibroblast differentiation in vitro. Surgery 98, 931-934 (1985).

8.         Varani, J., et al. Decreased collagen production in chronologically aged skin: roles of age-dependent alteration in fibroblast function and defective mechanical stimulation. Am J Pathol 168, 1861-1868 (2006).

9.         Kumar, G.B., Nair, B.G., Perry, J.J.P. & Martin, D.B.C. Recent insights into natural product inhibitors of matrix metalloproteinases. Medchemcomm 10, 2024-2037 (2019).

10.      Lim, H., et al. Identification of Novel Natural Product Inhibitors against Matrix Metalloproteinase 9 Using Quantum Mechanical Fragment Molecular Orbital-Based Virtual Screening Methods. International journal of molecular sciences 23(2022).

11.      Feng, L., et al. Characteristic differences in barrier and hygroscopic properties between normal and cosmetic dry skin. II. Depth profile of natural moisturizing factor and cohesivity. Int J Cosmet Sci 36, 231-238 (2014).

12.      Gunnarsson, M., Mojumdar, E.H., Topgaard, D. & Sparr, E. Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility. Journal of colloid and interface science 604, 480-491 (2021).

13.      Bukhari, S.N.A., et al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. Int J Biol Macromol 120, 1682-1695 (2018).

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